Once you have a sense of how you sail and what sails you need, the next step is working through the options that go into each one. Every sail comes with a range of choices, some of which have a big impact on how the sail performs and how long it lasts, and some of which are smaller details that your sailmaker will help you work through. This article gives you an overview of the key decisions for each sail type. We’ll go deeper on each one in the individual sail guides later in this series.
Mainsail Options
The mainsail tends to have the most options to work through, so it’s worth spending a little time on the bigger decisions before you get to the details.
How the Mainsail Attaches to the Mast
In most cases we’ll match whatever system your boat already has, since changing systems means changes to your mast and hardware that usually aren’t necessary. If you’re not sure what system you have, we can help you identify it.
The most common setup on cruising boats is plastic slides, sometimes called slugs. These are typically white plastic slides made by Bainbridge or Challenge Sailcloth and come in round or flat versions. We stock these and they’re included in the price of the sail. On larger boats or for high-load applications like batten slides and head slides, there are slightly larger black versions called Allslip slides that are stronger and more robust.
Some boats use a Tides Marine Strong Track system, which is an aftermarket track that slides into the existing internal mast track. These use stainless steel sliders that work similarly to plastic slides but with significantly less friction. They’re a nice upgrade and generally last a very long time. Most come off with a pin and ring, and we recommend reusing them since a full set can run $500 to $1,000.
At the top end are dedicated external track systems, the most common being Harken and Antal, though there are many others. These use a track mounted on the outside of the mast, usually installed from the factory, with ball bearing cars or sliders running on it. These systems are found on a wide range of boats but are nearly universal on boats over 40 to 50 feet. We’ll generally reuse your existing cars and build the mainsail with the correct headboard and batten boxes to fit your specific system. If cars need replacing, we can help source the right ones.
One quick note on the foot of the mainsail: older boats often had slides or bolt rope along the boom to attach the foot of the sail. Modern sailmaking has moved away from this in favor of a loose-footed main, where only the tack and clew attach to the boom. A loose foot is easier to install and gives you better control over sail shape, so unless your setup requires otherwise, that’s what we’ll build.
Headsails are much simpler. Most use a luff tape that feeds into a roller furler, which is easy to identify and straightforward to build for. Some older boats are still set up for hanked-on headsails, using either traditional brass hanks or newer web loops and clips. Either way, it’s easy to identify and we’ll build accordingly.
Battens
Battens are strips of fiberglass or carbon that are inserted into pockets across the sail. They serve two purposes: supporting the roach of the sail, which is the curved area behind a straight line from the head to the clew, and preventing the leech from fluttering. Without battens, the leech would have to be cut straight or even hollow, which significantly reduces sail area and performance.
Battens come in two main types for cruising mainsails. Partial battens, sometimes called leech battens, extend only partway across the sail from the leech. Full battens run the entire width of the sail from leech to luff. Full battens do a better job of supporting sail shape, are quieter in light air, and make the sail easier to manage in a stack pack or lazy jack system. They’re particularly popular with offshore and bluewater sailors because they add durability and help the sail hold its shape over long miles.
Most cruising mainsails have between three and six battens depending on the size of the boat, with full battens always placed at the top where the loads are highest. For a 40-foot boat as an example, we typically recommend five battens. Coastal sailors often go with one or two full battens at the top and the rest partial, which saves some cost and is a bit less work to install. Offshore sailors tend to prefer all full battens for the durability and handling benefits. The right mix for your boat depends on the shape of your sail, your sailing style, and your plans.
If you’re reusing existing batten cars, we’ll generally match the existing batten setup since most external track systems use different cars for full versus partial battens. If you want to change your setup, we can help make sure you have the right hardware.
Reefing
Reefing reduces the size of the mainsail when the wind builds, keeping the boat manageable, balanced, and comfortable. Getting the reef setup right at the build stage is one of the most important decisions you’ll make, and it’s much easier to add reefs during the build than to go back later.
Most cruising mainsails use slab reefing, where dedicated reef points at the luff and leech allow you to bundle up the lower portion of the sail. Reef points can be placed at any height on the sail. For coastal boats we typically start at around 12.5% and 25% of the luff length. For offshore boats we tend to use 15% and 30% as a starting point, with a third reef at around 45% for boats that will be pushed harder or sail further from shore.
For bluewater sailors or anyone venturing well offshore, it’s worth considering a deep third or fourth reef at around 50% of the luff length. At that height you’re removing 65% or more of the total sail area, which effectively turns the mainsail into a storm trysail without having to go forward and change sails in big breeze. It’s a simple thing to add at the build stage and can be invaluable offshore. Before specifying reefs, check how many reef lines your boat is currently rigged for. Adding more reefs may mean adding additional rigging.
In-mast furling mainsails reef differently, rolling into the mast like a roller furler headsail. There’s no need to specify reef points, but sails that will be reefed regularly benefit from extra reinforcement and reference marks to help repeat consistent reefing positions.
In-boom furling mainsails use standard reef points like a traditional slab-reefed sail, just without separate tack and clew attachments. These sails need proper reinforcing around the reef points, and the furling system handles the rest.
Choose the Right Main
Headsail Options
The two biggest decisions for a headsail are how it’s deployed and how big it is.
Most modern cruising boats use a roller furler, which allows the headsail to be rolled up around the forestay when not in use. It’s convenient, easy to handle short-handed, and is the standard setup on cruising boats. Roller furling headsails benefit from a foam luff, which is a wedge-shaped foam insert along the luff of the sail that helps it maintain a better shape when partially furled. It’s a worthwhile addition for sailors who regularly use their headsail at partial furls. A UV cover on the leech and foot protects the sailcloth from sun damage when the sail is rolled up, and is an important addition for anyone sailing in a high-UV environment or leaving the sail on the furler for extended periods.
The alternative to roller furling is hanked-on sails, which attach to the forestay with individual clips. Hanked-on sails are simpler and more robust, and are still preferred by some bluewater sailors for their reliability offshore. They require more deck work to change and stow but have fewer moving parts to fail.
Headsail size is measured as a percentage of the foretriangle, known as LP percentage. A 100% jib has a clew that sits at the forestay, while a 135% genoa overlaps the mast significantly. Larger headsails generate more power in light air but are harder to tack and more difficult to manage as the breeze builds. Many cruising sailors opt for something in the 110% to 130% range as a versatile all-around choice. Sailors in consistently light-air venues often go larger, while those in heavy-air venues may prefer a smaller non-overlapping jib that’s easier to handle and sheet. For a deeper look at how to choose the right headsail size for your boat and sailing style, check out our genoa sizing guide: Choose the right size Genoa.
Downwind Sail Options
Downwind sails open up a whole new range of sailing angles and light-air performance. The main decision here is how the sail is deployed and stored.
A cruising spinnaker can be used with a snuffer, which is a sock that slides down over the sail to douse it. Snuffers are simple, affordable, and work well for occasional downwind sailing. The alternative is a furling system, which rolls the sail around its own luff for storage. Furlers are more convenient for regular use and easier to handle short-handed, but add cost and complexity.
Code zeros are almost always used with a furler. Their firm luff makes them difficult to manage any other way, and the furler makes deploying and dousing straightforward even short-handed.
The other consideration for downwind sails is how they’ll be flown. Symmetric spinnakers require a spinnaker pole, while asymmetrics and code zeros can be flown from a bow fitting or bowsprit. If your boat doesn’t have a pole or prod, an asymmetric setup is usually the easier and more practical path.
Mainsail Handling Systems
A few add-ons are worth mentioning here because they affect how your sail is built and should be considered at the same time. Lazy jacks are lines that run from the mast to the boom on either side of the sail, forming a cradle that catches the mainsail as it comes down. They make solo and short-handed sailing much easier. A stack pack takes this a step further, adding a fabric bag that sits on the boom and fully contains the sail when it’s lowered. Stack packs work particularly well with full batten mainsails, keeping everything tidy and protecting the sail from UV when not in use. If you’re planning to add lazy jacks or a stack pack, it’s worth building the sail with them in mind from the start. We’ll cover these in more detail in the mainsail guide.
The Smaller Details
Beyond the big decisions above, there are a range of smaller options on every sail: reinforcing patches at high-load areas, chafe protection for spreaders and lifelines, UV-stable thread on exposed seams, leech lines, tell-tale windows, and more. Your sailmaker will walk you through the relevant ones for your build. Most are straightforward choices and a good sailmaker will steer you toward what makes sense for your use rather than loading you up with options you don’t need.
In Article 5, we get into the heart of the sail buying decision: materials. What they are, how they differ, and how to match the right material to your sailing plans.
